IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington State

Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Mount Stuart - first attempt

16 August 1975

04 092 John B points out fish in 8 Mile Ck

You can take the climber out of the fisherman, but you can't take the fisherman out of the climber. Yes; There are fish in Eight Mile Creek.

 

 

04 093 Argonaut Pk Sherpa Pass on L Stuart trail

Argonaut Peak and Sherpa Pass are at the head of Mountaineer Creek; as seen here along the Lake Stuart trail. The Argonauts of Greek Myth-ology were a crew of heroes who sailed on the vessel Argo to search for the Golden Fleece. The Argonauts navigated between rocky towers & managed to avoid the fatal allure of the Sirens. Appropriately, Argonaut Peak stands safely between the allure of Mt Stuart and Dragontail Pk.

Mount Stuart - North Ridge

23 August 1976

04 086 Sunrise on Mountaineer Ridge Mt Stuart

As the first rays of the morning sun hit Mountaineer Ridge the climbers are found at the base of the challenging North Ridge and strategically positioned for the second attempt on Mount Stuart.

 

 

04 087 Ice Cliff Hilton on North ridge Mt Stuart

In August of 1976 we find the climbers camped at the foot of Mt Stuart's North ridge. Nearby the camp is the Ice Cliff Glacier with its constant creaking, grinding, and occasional booming serenade. The creature comforts of the small camp site were not overwhelming. But, compared to the arduous approach or the strenuous climbing above, it became a welcome retreat for rest and hot food. They called it the Ice Cliff Hilton.

 

04 088 19th century moraine below the Ice Cliff Hilton

 

The balcony view at the Ice Cliff Hilton extends down past a nineteenth century moraine and then on to the hanging valley of the Leaf-berry patch that drops down into Mountaineer Creek.

 

 

04 089 Ice Cliff Glacier and clouds Mt Stuart

The highly active Ice Cliff Glacier grinds down the North side of Mount Stuart. Notice the summit in the clouds.

 

 

04 090 Mountaineer Ridge AKA Robot Ridge

Mountaineer Ridge is sometimes called Robot Ridge from this view. You can see the robots in the rock formations along the ridge top - "Danger Will Robinson".

 

 

04 091 False Barry Bush on upper Mountaineer Ck

The northern approach to Mount Stuart is by way of Icicle Creek out of Leavenworth. Eight Mile road turns south from The Icicle at mile 9 and climbs 4 miles to the Stuart Lk Trail. Leave the trail at 3.5mi just past the swamp at 4600ft. A faint path crosses open forest along Mountaineer Creek and then climbs steeply up its west fork. At 5400ft you find the False-Berry Bushes, and then it is only 1000 feet up to the Ice Cliff Hilton.

 

04 094 Colchuck Lake trail Chris H

Climbers can be photographers too.

 

 

 

04 095 John B and Mares Tails at Ice Cliff Hilton

From the top floor of the Ice Cliff Hilton, the climbers watched wispy clouds swirl like mares tails off the summit of Mount Stuart. Even though the little clouds were slowly drifting north, they foretold of the prevailing southwesterly that would eventually bring rain up from the south. For now, the weather was fine and the climbers decided to go on with the climb at first light. North Ridge route - Mount Stuart - Alpine Lakes Area.

 

04 096 Macramé at Balay Station on lower North Ridge

 

Macramé (the art of tying knots in a decorative or entertaining pattern) is a highly developed skill amongst high angle rock campers. Here the climbers a hauling up all that camping gear.

 

 

04 097 Chris H on lower west side N Ridge Mt Stuart

On the way up the lower west side of Mt Stuart's North Ridge route, the climbers found some exciting and challenging route finding. Noted geologist and prolific Cascade Range explorer Professor I C Russell once wrote "on the north side of Mt Stuart and 1000 ft below its summit there are three small glaciers situated in steep gorges or clefs in granite and sheltered by outstanding cliffs." Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 8/76

 

04 098 Lower N Ridge Bivouac Warren Chris H

When we ran out of daylight on the first day climbing Mount Stuart North Ridge route we made camp at this lower North Ridge bivouac site. Packing the next morning we drew straws for the sink.

 

 

04 099 Stuart Mid-Ridge Notch John B and Chris H

Hey you guys, go over there so I can get a picture . . . And no I'm not kidding.

 

 

 

04 100 Warren sews at Mid-Ridge Notch Mt Stuart

 

"Big Wall Climbing" covers multi-day ascents of routes that climb thousands of vertical feet & include perilous bivouacs in harsh conditions. These climbers favor "Big Wall Camping". ALW

 

 

04 101 Campers on the North Ridge of Mt Stuart

 

The key defining factor when engaged in "Big Wall Camping" is to always carry way more stuff than your will ever be comfortable with: Tent, stove, pots & pans and a great big food bag. 8/76

 

 

04 102 Mt Stuart Mid-Ridge Notch John B

Camp on Mount Stuart Mid-Ridge notch. Climber Campers waiting for the clouds to move off the summit so the sun can dry out the crux.

 

 

 

04 104 Traversing the Stuart Gl John B Chris H

Exit from Mount Stuart North Ridge again. This time from the Mid-Ridge notch down to the lightly crevassed Stuart Glacier.

 

 

04 105 John B on the snow above Stuart Lk

 

On the descent of the Stuart Gl, the climbers carved turns with a boot glissade. The route went down between Mountaineer Ridge and Axis Peak to meet the trail on the far side of Stuart Lake.

 

 

04 106 Goat Pass W Ridge Stuart from Stuart Lk

The View from Lake Stuart shows Goat Pass and rising to the left the West Ridge of Mount Stuart. Notice the Summit is still in the clouds.

 

 

04 106m Mount Stuart Map

 

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