IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington State Glacier Peak Wilderness

Kennedy Hot Springs

April 1973

Friday night I drove The Cortina, with Chris H and Lewis G, up through the logging town of Darrington and then out the Mountain Loop Highway. We turned up the White Chuck River road and eventually stopped at Crystal Creek Campground for the night. We set up the tents in the light from the headlights, and then cooked hot cocoa on the Sevea white gas stove. In the morning, we broke camp and then continued up to the end of the road where we found Owl Creek Picnic Area. I found a Frisbee in the parking lot. So, Chris and I threw it back and forth while waiting for Lewis to rearrange his pack a few times. When Lewis was ready, we hiked out past the trail head sign that gave notice: WILDERNESS PERMITS REQUIRED. We didn't have a permit.

I adopted a fast pace along the well maintained and virtually flat trail. I stopped by the wilderness boundary sign on the far side of the bridge over Boundary Creek. I took off my pack and went back across the bridge to line up a good picture. As I climbed up the hill side above the trail, I heard voices coming up the trail. I sat down and lined up a good picture. Lewis came romping by and I snapped the shutter as he crossed the bridge. When Lewis noticed my pack, he soon discovered my hiding spot. So, I climbed back down to join him at the sign. While we waited, a large group of hikers came by. I shouldered my pack, and then Lewis and I went on up the trail. We passed the large group at the top of the hill, and then continued along the bench lands beside the White Chuck River.

After awhile we came to the snow and also started to meet people coming out. Going up some switchbacks I met an elderly couple with a dog. They said that there was a lot of snow at The Hot Springs. When I reached Glacier Creek I was alone. I took off my pack and sat under a tree. Lewis and Chris came slipping along in a short time. I felt pity for them because they did not have lugged soles on their boots. They sat down to rest as I was getting cold. Another group came up the trail, and stopped to chat and look at maps. One man with an altimeter proudly announced that we were at twenty six hundred feet. I looked at the map and said, "That means that we are back at the trailhead." The guy with the altimeter looked hurt and I rethought the price of an altimeter. The other party started to leave, but first Lewis had to retrieve his map from one of the hikers. Lewis, Chris and I hiked up the snow covered trail with the people in the other party.

We finally topped a slight rise and came to the lightly wooded flat where the hot springs were located. There was a hiking team just leaving the area and one man advised us to leave our packs were he was. He said it was the best campsite. I gladly left my pack and continued along the path. There were two structures near the springs. The first was an old lean-to that was blackened with smoke from many smoldering fires that came from the elevated fire pit that sat in the opening of the lean-to. I looked inside. It smelled of smoke. The shelter was unoccupied and very messy. A short distance away was another structure of better construction. There was smoke coming from the chimney and there was a sign that said; "Ranger Headquarters." Considering that I didn't have the required permit, I decided to keep away from the building. Past the Ranger Station, to the right, a bridge crossed the White Chuck River. The bridge was slightly slanted and with no railing. Lewis and I stopped in the middle of the bridge. With the noisy river providing the accompaniment, we sang an impromptu cannon of Row-row-row-your-boat. We finished, had a good laugh and then continued across the bridge. At the other side, we followed the sign to the tub. The tub was constructed of wood. It measured five by five, and was filled with reddish brown water. Steam rose from the water, and the aroma was of rotten eggs. Opposite the steaming pool the sign nailed to the tree blurted; "NO CAMPING". Just past the pool was the end of the trail and the natural hot springs proper. There was a tiered water fall that fanned out across the slope displaying an assortment of growing minerals. The crystals displayed many shades of red and green. The calico cliff ended in the creek, where under the surface the color was predominately blue green. The pool area was empty, but at that time we did not know it was a rarity.

Lewis and I re-crossed the bridge in search of Chris. We found him in the smelly lean-to, where he had decided to spend the night. I did not object orally, but quietly went to fetch my pack. When I reach my pack the overcast sky began to drip, so I hurried back to the lean-to. I stepped into the shelter hopefully to escape the rain, but my stepping was in vain. Numerous skylights appeared in the roof. I unpacked the plastic tarp I had found at Spruce Bottoms, and Chris helped me drape the tarp over the roof. Lewis and I hung our ponchos across the opening in the front. Chris covered an opening in the wall with his space blanket. After choosing sleeping places, we went out for another exploration. To my surprise, Chris walked right up to the ranger station, knocked and went inside. I decided not to follow. Lewis and I went across the bridge, anticipating a dip in the hot tub. When we reached the tub area, there were two teenage girls in the tub. A fatherly type stood close by taking pictures. I presumed it was mother that was preparing lunch over under the no camping sign. I walked past trying not to stare. We found another group over by the colorful cliff, waiting for their pool rights. Lewis and I chatted with a man. He told us that he had measured the temperature of the water at various places. He announced that the temperature of the tub was ninety four degrees.

Lewis and I went back past the pool and headed back toward the bridge. Instead of crossing, we continued up a side trail for a short distance. We found a trail sign that told of various mileages to certain lakes. We went back to the bridge were we met Chris. Chris and Lewis went over to the springs, and I went back to the lean-to. After awhile in the lean-to, I primed the Sevea and started cooking supper. Chris and Lewis returned when the meal was cooked and we ate. Chris told us of the two men in the rangers place. They were not rangers. He said that they were in line for the pool tonight. I couldn't keep from laughing as I thought, "Here we are in the wilderness and waiting to make reservations for the pool".

Chris cooked up some hot water and we had hot cocoa. I would occasionally poke my head out between the ponchos and look across the snow filled flat toward the pool. At times I would see a lantern glowing. I envied the people in the tub. My feet were cold and I shivered. I strung my space blanket around my sleeping area to decrease the draft. Chris used his rain fly to make a tent around his area. When the candle lantern burnt down, we crawled into our sleeping bags. I watched my stove run out of fuel in its tank before I went to sleep. I slept cold and vowed to buy a better sleeping bag in the near future.

In the morning if was still foggy and overcast. Lewis cooked pancakes over his Blew-it stove, and we ate a late breakfast. After eating we prepared for a hot dip in the tub. I pulled a full size bath towel out of my pack and received envious looks from both Chris and Lewis. We headed for the tub filled with high expectations.

The pool area was deserted when we arrived. We disrobed and sank into the steaming water. I decided to set a time limit for our occupation to avoid the temptation of staying submerged indefinitely. We finally settled on a one hour maximum. We dreaded to leave the pool to enter the snowy surroundings, but Chris and I wanted pictures of ourselves. This meant that Lewis would have to operate the cameras. He climbed out of the tub, and Chris and I watched to see if he would survive the cold. Lewis took pictures with both cameras, and then quickly re-entered. After forty five minutes I emerged into the cold air, dried, and dressed. Lewis and Chris lingered, showing weaker will. I went back to the lean-to and started packing. I had to wait for Chris to return, so he could help me fold the tarp.

After we had finished packing, Chris noticed that the ranger station was unoccupied. We went across the flat and entered the warm shelter. Chris re-stoked the fire in the stove, and I looked through the rangers regulations. We found a map that was more up to date than ours, so I updated our map. Reluctantly we left the warm shelter and headed back down the trail. While we were on the snow, I would have to wait for my lug less companions from time to time. Once the snow disappeared, as we descended, Chris began to stretch out his lead. Soon I couldn't spot him on the longer straights. Lewis stayed with me for awhile, but soon he too disappeared, except for the faint flash of his red Skyline pack far ahead. On the bridge at Boundary Creek I lingered, and anticipated my return to Glacier Peak Wilderness.

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