IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington State

Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Chimney Rock

5 July 1976

04 002 John B Lemah Mtn White Snag Route

As the climbers made their way up the ridge between Lemah and Chimney Creeks, Lemah Mountain rose out of the West. They named the climb the White Snag Route. On the route they came across a young deer fawn with spotted coat and motionless pause would have made it unnoticeable as we passed if it wasn't found directly under foot.

04 003 John B approaches Chimney Rock

The climbers found early on that summits from a distance always look harder than when you get close. Yet as they approached the Chimney Glacier and the Chimney peaks, they still looked quite ominous. The North Peak 7634ft on the right is the hardest and is separated from the Main Pk 7727ft by Chimney Col where you find the Finger of Fate 7360+.

04 004 Three Queens from camp east of Chimney Rock 1976

The Three Queens from the Silver Snag Route on the Lemah-Chimney Creek divide. Within the Wenatchee Forest, east of the crest, fires are not allowed above five thousand feet. This protects the interesting and picturesque silver snags that continue on with their life-after-death existence. Access is Cle Elum River, Cooper Lake and Pete Lake trail #1323. Wenatchee Forest; Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 7/76

04 005 Rest on Lemah Chimney Divide with Pete Lake

Rest stop on Lemah Creek-Chimney Creek Divide. The outlet of Pete Lake flows away into the Cooper River and on to Salmon La Sac. The old Trailhead was at the Tired Creek clear-cut on the south slope of Polallie Ridge. Its now moved back to Cooper Lake. Polallie in Chinook Indian jargon is dusty sand or powder. The fine grain soil found along the ridge crest is Polallie. Wenatchee Forest; Cle Elum Dist. July 1976

04 006 John B Rests near the Chimney Glacier Icefall

The climber waits for the photographer near the Chimney Glacier Icefall. The East Face Route ascends to the left of the Icefall. Wenatchee Forest; Alpine Lakes Wilderness. July 76

04 007 John B Kicks Steps up the avalanche Chute

Before we could get to the rock-climbing part of the Chimney Rock East Face route, we need to climb up an avalanche snow chute, cross the Chimney Glacier and cross three bergschrunds. My young climbing partner put in the hard work of kicking steps up the steep snow chute while I rolled and smoked Top Tobacco. Or should I say "because" I rolled and smoked.

04 008 John B leads up the Chimney Glacier

At the sharp end of the rope, the leader goes up and around, looking for a suitable way across the bergschrund. We both tried and tried to find a route to the East face. But alas we found no way that was consistent with our level of courage this day (i.e. we chickened out). With equal amounts discouragement and relief, we eased back down to followed our track back to camp.

04 009 Looking down on the Lemah-Chimney Divide

The rocky rib that descends Southeast from provisionally named Iceberg Peak* and splits Lemah Creek and Chimney Creek, we called the Lemah-Chimney Divide. Or L-C-D for short. The warm looking afternoon sun on the flat where we camped looked way more inviting than the cold drippy ice world we had unsuccessfully attempted. It was an easy decision to head back down.

04 010 The Three Queens and John B on the L-C Divide

A successful climber knows when to turn around. They safely return to the Lemah-Chimney Divide after an unsuccessful attempt on the East Face of Chimney Rock. The Three Queens heckled the Climbers from across Delate Creek. The Climbers know there will be another day. The annoying Three Queens were once called Mineral Mountain. The Climbers longed for the old days. Alpine Lakes Wilderness. July 1976

04 011 Clouds Form Smoke signals on N Peak Chimney Rk

The wispy clouds around the North Peak of Chimney Rock form smoke signals at the end of the day. To the left of the North Peak is the Finger of Fate, and further south is the Main Peak, and then the South Peak. Chimney Rock, with its two principal summits striking a sharp pattern in the sky, is perhaps the most distinctive peak in the region. Wenatchee Forest; Cle Elum Dist; Alpine Lakes Wilderness. July 76.

04 012 John B nears Chimney Rock east face Chimney Gl

Rejuvenated by bright sunny skies, the Climbers retrace their steps across the Chimney Gl. The East Face Direct goes up the center. Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Bicentennial Climb. 7/76

04 013 Warren E face Direct Route Chimney Rk

A good way to escape the Bicentennial celebration. On this ascent of Chimney Rock, the Climbers used Hex centric Chocks and sticky-soled climbing shoes. In 1930 during the first ascent, they too used rubber-soled shoes since their hob-nailed boots proved useless. The first climb was no doubt the hardest rock climb done in the Cascades to that time. Wenatchee National Forest; Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area. July 1976.

04 014 Escaping the Bicentennial on Chimney Rk

04 015 John B cleans face of Chimney Rock

Climbing on the East Face of Chimney Rock. "Do you have a good hold? Hold on a sec' so I can take a picture."

04 017 Why Its Called Chimney Rock Warren

The final pitch on Chimney Rock was an open chimney done by stemming technique and made easy without a pack. I guess this is why it is called Chimney Rock.

04 018 John B on Chimney Rk Three Queen and HiBox

On the summit of Chimney Rock. Hibox Mountain is off in the center and The Four Brothers are behind the Summiteer. The now quieted Three Queens stand silently to the left on the other side of Delate Creek. Delate is Chinook Indian jargon meaning straight creek. The climbers had planned to hike out this day. But, the thirteen rappel decent would use up all the remaining daylight. Alpine Lakes Wilderness. July 1976

04 019 Chikamin Peak and Lemah Thumb from Pete Lake

From left to right is Chikamin Pk and Lemah Thumb from Pete Lk. The Indian word Chikamin means money and Lemah is the term for fingers. Wenatchee Forest; Alpine Lakes.

04 019m Chimney Rock Lemah Mountain Map


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