IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington State Alpine Lakes Wilderness

SNOW above the CREEK on the WALL

12 June 1976

Jim K was leaving for BC to instruct for Outward Bound. But, before he left he wanted to climb on Snow Creek Wall. Jim and I had hiked up the Snow Creek Trail the weekend before. But, the drippy weather had persuaded us to just look at the wet rock instead of climb. I forgot the climbing guide at home. So, after buying a new guide at the Leavenworth Der Sportsman, we started up the Snow Creek Trail with heavy packs, questionable weather, and about to be blistered feet. Two miles later with blistered heels, we reached the Wall Camp and stowed our overnight gear. With a load of rock gear stowed in one pack, we followed the steep climbers trail up to the base of the Satellite route.

We jammed on our climbing shoes, and then Jim led up the class four chimney. I belayed Jim from a small alcove that was protected from rockfall. After I climbed the chimney, I pass Jim and then set a belay below the Beckey move. When Jim did the move, he thought it was more like a Wilt Chamberlain move; he could barely reach the fixed pin. Jim stopped short of the crux. I slipped on my rain gear and tried to ignore the rain mixed with snow. The Beckey move was a fingertip pull up.

When I reached the crux, the snow was coming down in earnest. I balked on the "go-for-it" 5.7 move and Jim was getting upset. There was this ugly scene where Jim was yelling for me to hurry, I was saying I can't do it and the snow was falling. Pretty much your basic nightmare. Jim had to do a lot of talking before he eventually hauled me up through the crux. Jim and I traded belay positions as the snowflakes grew larger. Feeling a sense of urgency, Jim scurried up and ran out the 165 foot of rope. The next lead started with a short lay back. Jim quickly moved out of sight and soon came to the end of the rope. I led the last pitch over some huge chicken head knobs.

We stood on top of Snow Creek Wall, glaring at each other. Both soaked from the wet snow and shivering from the cold. I was mad a Jim for yelling at me, and Jim was mad at me for making him yell. We descended the gully to the south of the wall. After changing shoes at the base of the Satellite Route, we got off route and into some tricky free climbing. We reached a wall camp at dusk, and by the time dinner was served it was dark. After seeing some mice, the food bag was hung out of reach. I was asleep as soon as I settled into my sleeping bag.

The morning dawned cloudless and sunny. After a quick cold breakfast, we packed up to the base of the wall. When we reach the base of the White Slab Route, we did the first class four lead unroped. We put on climbing shoes and then Jim led on up. The second lead was easy on good holds. I belayed Jim from below the bush as he moved through the balance traverse and out of sight. As I fed out the rope for Jim, I spotted two climbers on the Outer Space route. When Jim was settled into a belay, I started up. The dihedral system was the crux, but it seemed too easy. Jim led the final lead that started with a short lay back. Then he climbed to the left of a overhang and finished by using friction over a bulge. I made a pendulum traverse from the top of the lay back.

We dropped down the Country Club route to the start of the Umbrella Tree Route. Jim moved up an exposed face on small holds. At the crux, Jim was confused and then I read from the guide. I headed up. It was scary with tricky balance and loads of exposure. I aided the crux on fixed pins because the lay back holds were broken off. When I reached Jim's position we found that the rope was jammed. I repelled down a dirty chimney and freed the rope. Jim led the next short lead to the umbrella tree. When I reached the umbrella tree, I found the most interesting aspect of the route. There was a brassiere tied around the trunk of the "Um'Bra'lla" Tree. Jim gave me the final lead and I enjoyed it. I climbed over the top in time to see the setting sun. I stayed on top and watched the sunset as Jim started down the descent. I caught up with Jim at the base of the Satellite Route. Jim tried to find the shortcut. But, he ended up repelling back down. We found a good route back to the base of the White Slabs route. Jim climbed up and retrieved the boots. Then he had to go back up and get the rain gear. After a short stop at the Wall Camp, we packed out in the fading light and reached the car at dark. Four hours later when Jim dropped me at the house on Goat Hill, I said, "See you later." And I never saw Jim again.

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