IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington State From Baker to St Helens

26 REI Climbing School - Intermediate course

June 1975

RECREATIONAL EQUIPMENT, INC.

Seattle, Washington

May 21, 1975

Dear IBEX:

Thank you for enrolling in our Intermediate course.

At this time we have 14 people in the class with
three instructors so we should have a good Instructor-
Student ratio.

The class will go as the catalog states with the
exception of the Mount Baker climb. Due to the recent
activity there, we will try to do a route on Mount Adams.
Everything else will go as planned.

I have enclosed an equipment list that we will go
over on the first night. Please don't buy any equipment
other than what you have until then.

Regards,

Bob S

Asst. Store Manager

Mountaineering . Camping . Skiing . Bicycling . Tennis . Canoeing

Equipment List

REI Climbing School

I saw the application in the Recreational Equipment Inc Catalog, and I thought, "How convenient. To meet prospective climbing partners, and perhaps, to learn something." The four weekend course included: rock climbing practice in Leavenworth; Multi lead technical rock climb from over night camp near Washington Pass; Glacier and ice climbing practice on Mount St Helens; and finally a weekend climb of the North Ridge of Mount Baker. I sent in the money with a résumé of a lengthy list of my climbs in 1974 and then I waited for the winter to end.

At the first Wednesday meeting I was very self conscious about my sun burnt face and blooming lips. Bob S went over the equipment list. He said the Mt Baker climb was back on again, and suggested car pools to Leavenworth. I met Jim K and then arranged a ride with him to Leavenworth.

We assembled in Leavenworth on Saturday morning, and then drove up into the Icicle Canyon. After parking in the Snow Creek Trail parking lot, we climbed up into the rocks the were across the road. One of the instructors, Rick G, a fellow gymnast from Central Washington State College, showed off by climbing a strenuous overhang that know one was able to follow. Higher up the side of the Icicle Creek Canyon, ropes were hung across a face, and we climbed top roped. I fell on a friction move and it upset Bob. Bob taught me to use the ball of my foot and smear the climbing shoe onto the rock. Higher up, I led a short pitch and was able to place loads of protection. The training session ended as the last of the water was finished off. The day had been hot and dry. The word was passed around that the next Wednesday meeting was cancelled. Jim and I headed for Lucky's Tavern to drowned in his cold beer. As the pitcher quickly drained, Jim and I made plans for the next weekend session.

Jim K is a celebrity to me. I admire, envy, respect, and enjoy his quick wit. His likable personality is not overpowering, but compromising and sensible. His experience with Outward Bound makes him extremely competent in the mountains. His lust for quality equipment is cushioned with money gained from working with computers. He is a student of law, an avid Red's fan, and an admirer of the British. When focused on climbing, he becomes very excites and his, east coast mannerisms come through.

Liberty Bell

After trying to fit four climbers and all their gear in Jim's Mustang, we pronounce the car pool unsuccessful. While driving north with Jim, he told me of his plans with an expedition to Pakistan. We stopped in Burlington and Jim hogged down his normally large breakfast. I drove out highway 20. This was the first time that I had drove the section above Colonial Creek. I pulled into the Washington Pass parking area and a State Patrol soon appeared. The officer told Jim of his defective taillight. I didn't have a drivers license.

My pack was very heavy, and I was glad that we were going only a short distance. The last members soon arrived at the pass, and then we trudged over the snow into the basin southwest of Washington Pass. I setup my brand new MSR tent. After the camp was set, we packed sacs and then went up steep snow toward Liberty Bell. As the party neared the south col of Liberty Bell, those who had crampons put them on, and some put on ropes.

It was windy in the col, and the sun was trying to decide if it was going to shine today. There was a short period of indecision, and then Roger led up out of the col. Bob dropped down and started the Beckey Route. There was a long wait, and then Jim led Rick. I made the decision to lead with the feeling of, "Why not." Dean belayed me through a tricky friction mantel onto a sloping sill. I looked up to notice that Jim was having trouble with the layback or jam crack above. I used all of my slings and some of my protection pulled out as I climbed above it.

I reached the belay tree as Rick was leaving. I belayed Dean while using the small tree as an anchor. When Dean arrived at my position, Rick threw down a rope on my request. I tied in and then quickly flung myself up the first half of the layback. In the middle I balanced and rested. I noticed the fresh blood in the jam crack above me. Meat grinder jamming was not my style. So, I used face holds and lay-backed the upper section. As I clipped into Ricks anchor, he complimented me on my speed on the ascent of the last pitch. I told Rick that I thought it was the only way to do a strength draining lay back. Rick unclipped and then stepped out over a cliff and climbed up unroped. I waited for a long time.

Partially due to curiosity, and mainly for nothing else to do, I lengthened my anchor with a ten footer and then leaned out over the brink. Dean was belaying someone up from the notch. The wind was blowing through the col, but I sat in the warm sunshine above. Dean finally started up and he took is time. When he came panting over the edge, I made him clip into the anchor. I unroped and Dean looked surprised. Dean left one of my carabiners down on the tree, and I was surprised. I swung through the exposed move and then climbed up into the clump of stunted evergreens we called the Enchanted Forest.

The students that I had followed were found basking in the warm sun on a patio size ledge. They pointed out the fixed rope, and gave warning of the questionable anchor. On the top of Liberty Bell, the view was immense. I saw no familiar peaks, but his was not due to the lack of summits. There were scores and scores of unfamiliar crests: "Like a stormy sea the peaks rose up like whitecaped waves." I came back down to the patio and then munched on a chunk of melted glorp. I enjoyed the sun and the conversation. While going back down to the col, I waited in line to rappel. I waited in the col until all were down. I helped John coil the ropes and then partook in an enjoyable glissade. John ran ahead as I skated along. After arriving at camp, Jim and I ate steak and fresh pineapple. When the meal was devoured, we gathered around John's Sevea and had a pleasant time joking and bragging.

Jim koched a good breakfast. We divided into two groups, and I asked to go with John. (Mistake) I followed John until he lost me. Bob led his group up a longer, less strenuous, more efficient route. We regrouped on a rock outcropping, and then we went our separate ways. Bob's group went to the south ridge of South Early Winters Spire, and John's group to the Col Route on North Early winters Spire. I led up a steep snow finger that was blocked with a massive chalkstone. We roped up below the chalkstone and then I belayed Jim. I followed Jim's lead, and climbed in my mountain boots. I made an exciting pendulum onto the top of the chalkstone.

The others decided to try the Jumar climbing devices. John led up to the lip and then eased back down. I belayed while the others tried the Jumars. I had to lower the others back down. I used a ring belay. Jim took over the belaying while I climbed up the chute to the col. I got paranoid and backed back down to Jim. Jim rappelled over the lip first. I watched Jim slip at the overhang and smash into the rock. When I rappelled down, I had to go inverted to pass the overhang. Jim and I got to work with the Jumars assenders, and I learned what a daisy chain was. We rigged a fixed rope for the finger descent. My T-bird was used for an anchor. I slid down and then waited for John to come down with my axe. From the mouth of the finger there was a good glissade with turns. I raced with John and slid over some wet rock slabs. "You could kill yourself that way.", said John. Down at the camp, Jim helped me with the tent. While carrying out the heavy pack, I veered off the track and came out nearer the cars.

Snow and Ice Practice on Mount St. Helens

After the Wednesday meeting, I went wild at the Swallows Nest: Ice screws; Jumar ascenders; rope etc. Jim was off climbing with Rodger. So, I was able to get a ride with Bill and Greg on Friday night. Two six-packs and a quart of oil later we stopped at Timberline. A blowing mist dismissed all thoughts of erecting the tent, so I slept in the cab of Bill's truck.

When the sun rose, the group had assembled and we started out. The plan was to traverse the summit and descend the Dog's Head Route. It was still windy, but the clouds were low. We went up over the Sugar Bowl and roped up on the Little Lizard. I roped with Dean and he lead up with a slow pace. We climbed up the Leschi Glacier to a wall just below the Boot. Rick went ahead and climbed around a corner. Soon he came back and a decision was made to drop back down to a large crevasse.

On the lip of the crevasse I set my SMC fluke and rappelled down to the false bottom. It was warm and windless in the crevasse. I belayed and watched as the others climbed on the crevasse wall. When it became my turn, I stepped onto the ice wall and set my sharpened front points. With my T-Bird in one hand and Selewa hammer in the other, I was securely attached. Remembering the technique from Ice Craft book, I climbed up. After I swung over the top, I checked the anchor and then rappelled back down. I climbed on all of the ropes and tried the water ice on the opposite side of the crevasse. We climbed for hours and extinguished our chance for a summit traverse.

The practice session ended after I climbed the overhang. I waited on the lip for the last man to come up. After digging up the fluke, I plunged down the Leschi Glacier. On the steep pumice rib of the Little Lizard, I cramponed passed a group of crampon removers. On the traverse to the Sugar Bowl, my crampons started to clog. In mid-traverse I stopped and removed the sticky Irons. By hurrying down, I caught Rick and Jim. We walked and talked. I found some pleasant, Interesting conversation. We came out at the lower lot and then walked back up to the Timberline Loop. I left my tent in Bill's truck and rode off with Jim. I drove from the town of Toutle and we were back in Seattle before the sun went down. The Wednesday meeting was canceled. Jim and I planned for the Mount Baker ascent.

The North Ridge of Mount Baker

Jim picked me up early Saturday morning, and he drove up I-5 until Bellingham. I drove toward Glacier while Jim read the paper. Just below Glacier Ranger Station we saw Bob drive by, going back toward Bellingham. After parking in front of the Ranger Station, we found that Bob was going back for gear. Jim smeared, a heavy coat of Snow Seal on his double boots. The weather was a heavy overcast with intermittent light rain. Jim drove the Mustang across the road to the Glacier Inn parking lot. The lot was a hive of climbers. Jim went in and ordered breakfast while I sat in the car and read the paper. After awhile I went in the Inn and ordered toast. There was a loud drunk that offered me a schooner of beer. After eating we went outside to find that the caravan was about to begin. We joined the parade and wound up the Glacier Creek road. Jim used the windshield wipers as we climbed the dirt road into the clouds.

We finished filling the parking lot at the trailhead. I pulled on my boots, shouldered my Gold Bar pack, and then strolled up to the trailhead to wait. I watched a large group of Mountaineers organize their group equipment. The rest of the school finally got going. I followed Rick up the trail at a fast pace. When the trail steepened, Rick pulled over and I led out maintaining a fast pace. I finally managed to burn myself out. So, I stepped aside and watched the others pass. Bill and Greg joined me while I rested.

From the rest spot it was a short jaunt to Kulshan cabin. The cabin was in good condition. A plaque near the door said that the cabin was maintained by the American Alpine Club. From the cabin I fell in behind Bill, and I followed his steps in the spring snow. When the slope steepened, our pace slowed and we trudged up with an easy effort. Near the top of the slope I stepped out of the track and refreshed myself at a frothing cataract. We regrouped on a pumice rib and then traversed east to a rock Island. Camp was set at the rock island and the tents were pitched on the snow. We were close to the cloud level, and as a result, the sun would oscillate in and out. After all the tents were set, we had a dinner party. When the sun went down the skies cleared and the temperature dropped. My MSR tent slept three head to foot.

In the morning my boots were frozen, and I had to thaw them out in my sleeping bag. The clouds were just above us. After breakfast we roped up and headed toward the Colman Glacier. I wanted to rope with Jim, but Roger bumped me out. I roped with Bill and Greg. Bill led, adopting a slow pace. The crampons bit well in the iced over snow. On a steep section near the glacier. Guy slipped and fell. I yelled "Falling" to warn Rick, who was ahead on the rope. My call was too late for Rick was pulled over. Rick made a quick arrest and stopped Guy. On the steep part, I practiced the French technique.

By the time we reached the edge of the Colman Glacier we were into the clouds and there wasn't much to see, accept fog and big cracks. We dropped onto the glacier and used John's Mount McKinley experience to negotiate the maze of cracks and blocks. Most of the time we were in the fog. When we finally climbed above the weather, we stopped to rest in the sun. Greg passed around his water bottle and then dropped it before he could get a drink. I covered my face with Clown White and put on my Army goggles. I was christened "The Bug". In the upper crevasses on the Colman Glacier there was a tricky spot were we had to jump down across a large crack and then cross a questionable snow bridge.

At the base of the North Ridge we stopped for food and rest. There was a party of two that were doing the Roman Wall. I thought that they were asking for trouble, seeing that the temperature was well above freezing. The smell of sulfur hit me and I thought what it would be like to see Mt Baker erupt. The receat volcanic activity on Mt Baker had caused the climbing school to cancel the ascent. However, the mountain stabilized and the climb was on again. The Baker Lake area was closed due to the possible chance of mud slides. The smell of sulfur definitely added to the mystique.

We gained the ridge on steep snow. The exposure was there and a few students broke through. Near the top of the ridge Greg called for a belay. After the short food stop at the ridge crest, we filed up to the base of the Ice cap. There was a long wait while the other rope teams slowly disappeared around an icy corner. I thought about doing a direct route through a notch in the Ice cap that was directly above me. Our turn finally came and Bill led around on the ice. The ice was hard. My T-Bird gouged out a big hole, but the Selewa hammer worked fine. A steep chute of rotten snow was the second rope lead. The slope eased off as we neared the summit plateau. We passed Rick and Jim who were waiting to bring up the rear. The high altitude was effecting my breathing. I felt tired as I followed Bill across the summit crater.

A small hump of snow on the southern rim marked the summit. On the summit we stood up to meet a crisp southwesterly wind. Down to the right were the dirty, steamy holes of the Sherman Crater. From the vents rose a dark cloud of steam and sulfur fumes. The news paper had said there was a shallow lake, but I didn't see it. I sat on the top, in the lee of the summit knob. Rick and Jim quickly came by and Jim said about the summit, "If you've seen one you've seen them all". The rest of my rope team was for staying on the summit awhile longer. However, I was getting cold. So, I asked Rick if I could tag along. Jim, Rick and I started down together. We were unroped going down the west side. The wind was strong, but my new REI windbreaker worked fine.

We were running in the soft snow and every step was a breakthrough. I adopted a pace that was cushioning and efficient. I followed the post holes of a previous descending climber, and by skimming off the back wall of the hole and packing the hole before I stepped in it, I was able to adopt a pace that was cushioning and efficient. When we reached the nine thousand foot col east of Colfax Peaks, we looked up and saw no trace of the five climbers above. The increasing inclement weather pushed us over the edge, and we glissaded down to the Colman Glacier. We maintained our fast pace by running and sliding, down the well traveled trough. Just before descending into the clouds, we came to a "Y" in the trail. We stopped and looked up toward the summit. We could only see two of the five climbers descending the West Ridge. A cloud cap had covered the summit. We decided that the last rope team was still on the summit. The decision was made to wait for the climbers that were still above us. We watched, waited, and ate chocolate. I spotted the other rope team on the brink above the Roman Wall. They were to far north and coming down the wrong way. Rick yelled and waved his arms. They finally turned around and headed back up. Rick said that the recent thermal activity had changed the Roman Wall.

Both rope tears arrived unroped and then Earl told of the tracks that he was following down the Roman Wall. He said that as soon as we left the summit the clouds quickly closed in. We all headed down; eight climbers on one rope. The visibility decreased as we descended. Rick led, following the tracks and his nose in the white out. Soon numerous small crevasses appeared and another rope was brought out. After re-roping, we continued the quick descent. After a while Rick stopped and gave his personal call. There was an answer of multiple calls down to the right. We skated and ran down to the high camp on the rock island. There was an exchange of exuberant explanations when we reached camp.

Camp was quickly struck. I volunteered to carry a rope and we headed down. There was a good glissade down to Kulshan Cabin. On the trail below the cabin I stayed with Bob and John until I slowed due to my sore feet. Other climbers passed me as I adopted a slower pace. I looked for snow patches to cushion my blistered feet. By the time I reached the parking lot, dusk had arrived. Jim and Roger had a Mount Rainier adventure planned. So, I dejectedly declined Jim's ride invitation. The party loaded up and started down in search of the Glacier Tavern. I waited by Bill's truck and used the side mirror to remove the Clown White from my face. Bill and Greg finally arrived and I asked for a ride. I told them about the party down at the tavern as they changed clothes. We rolled down the road and continued to the tavern. Everyone was in high spirits and an enjoyable time resulted. Everyone pitched in to pay the bill. It was after midnight when we left the tavern. Bill drove to Bellingham and then Greg took over. I took the wheel at Everett and drove to Goat Hill. Somehow I Didn't have any trouble sleeping after twenty four hours of excitement.

INTERMEDIATE SESSION

RECREATIONAL EQUIPMENT, INC.

Seattle, Washington

July 8, 1975

Dear IBEX:

As you are probably aware, this was the first year that REI
conducted, an intermediate climbing course.  Consequently, we
are interested in your opinion of the course.

We hoped to achieve two objectives.  The first objective was
to familiarize you with techniques and. equipment needed to
climb moderately difficult rock and ice.  Secondly, we wanted
you to gain more confidence in climbing on such terrain.

Any feedback you give us will be very important in planning
next year's course.  Please let us know of anything you would
like to see added or deleted.  You can mail your response to
Bob S's attention at the store address or come and
talk it over at the final class meeting.

The final class meeting will be held Tuesday, July 15th at
John's house.  Come
between 7:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. (BYOB).

Thanks,

Bob, Rick, and John

Mountaineering . Camping . Skiing . Bicycling . Fishing . Canoeing

On the 15th I went to Seattle and looked for John's house. I couldn't find it and missed the Final meeting. I guess I needed more practice at orienteering.

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